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Uniform apparel in the UAE has transformed from traditional to modern designs, reflecting the country's diverse culture and global influences. Companies now prioritize comfort and functionality in uniforms, incorporating innovative fabrics and styles. The shift towards sustainable and eco-friendly materials is also gaining traction in the industry.
Recently there have been issues with DFS around me. Personally I think it is being misused to free up space in 5 GHz range - someone shoots radar signals and it kills my wi-fi 5 GHz radios until restart. It happens once a week and then I find out about it few days later after people yell at me it's working too slow (only on 2.4 GHz range).
To deal with this I've come up with this script:
https://github.com/Ashus/OpenWRT-radio-check
I am going to need this fix until hostapd gets fixed and try the same DFS channels again after reasonable time.
This is a package of OpenWRT 19.07.10 stable builds for targets ar71xx.
Modifications against default tiny packages:
- removed PPP support
- removed OPKG
- added LuCI
- added relayd
- added WatchCat
- replaced wpad-mini by wpad-basic
This way the builds could fit into squashfs (factory/sysupgrade) compatible builds. Relayd is there for cases where you use the device as LAN extender over WLAN without additional NAT. Wpad-basic enables the use of 802.11r.
I have selected to build only those targets, that have not been ported to ath79.
Builds have not been tested for all devices, but compiling resulted in no errors.
https://openwrt.ashus.net/19.07.10-targe...tiny-luci/
For wget in console you can use extra configured non-secure source http://openwrt.ashus.net/19.07.10-target...tiny-luci/
I've gradually developed the following strategy to win any special event in NFS No Limits.
Of course sometimes you need more skill, sometimes you need luck and it never hurts to have some gold from Daily assignments if you lack skill or luck (500 gold should be enough reserve at most times).
In all races you need to drift/draft/near miss at all times to get maximum credits to make things easier. Remember that drifting almost straight ahead doesn't slow you down and earns you nitro. If you can choose to use nitro a little bit later on straight roads or to drift sharper corners, do that; otherwise use nitro straight away.
If you are racing a special event from the Vault, there are no credits when you lose a race. In live events though, find a race of the day that gives you most credits by drifting and drafting at the same time behind another racer (fail2win). I found the best to be nitro rush with multiple racers (drafting without using collected nitro) or rush hour. Fail on that repeatedly with at least 1500 credits per try.
Repeat races retries can be replayed another day counting from GMT midnight, so in Czechia it is at 1:00 in the night when CET is active and 2:00 when CEST is active (central european summer time). Start the event at 15:30 GMT (17:30 CEST).
The big picture is you want to finish with a car upgraded completely to higher color. That saves you the trouble of having to grind enough materials and a lot of cash to upgrade from one color to another. In every event you upgrade the whole set once and receive 2 upgrades kit. Usually they are from acceleration and nitro category. Take a note which upgrade parts you already bought, from day 4 you might get confused by looking in storage as bought ones get mixed up with the ones you won. Use all available tickets before you go to sleep and do the same when you wake up; you need as much credits as possible.
Strategies differ a little for live and vault events.
Live events:
Day 1 and 2: Find the best fail2win race of the day, don't finish the day and do not repeat the last race in case you win by accident. Repeat fail2win race. Now look into store every hour if there is an upgrade kit. If you see one you haven't already bought and you have at least 8000 credits, buy it and pay the rest with gold. As the day ends, finish races successfully by taking into account you want to start collecting tickets and have 4 of them ready when another day opens. Day should be completed with 0 tickets at 12:00 GMT (14:00 CEST).
Vault events:
Day 1 and 2: Maximize the credits and buy one upgrade kit with credits and gold. You often don't need to insert won materials at the end of day as you want to spend as little gold as possible.
All events:
Day 3: There are first repeatable races here. Unlock first two replayable races and repeat them until GMT midnight or you run out of them. Keep on looking into store for non-bought upgrade kits. When you wake up the next day, finish the day and then find the best fail2win race among repeatable races. Finish it only twice and keep failing until you need to start collecting tickets like in day 1. If you have exessive amount of credits, you can start buying flywheels or thrust sleeves. Prioritize speed category to make your races easier and to overcome PR locks.
Day 4: There are more repeatable races from now on. You no longer need fail2win, you can just keep winning repeatables from day 3 when you run out of those in day 4. Keep looking for missing upgrade kits. Prioritize speed upgrades and 4000 credits gray materials.
Day 5 and 6: Just race. Now you need to focus on balancing the upgrade states of all parts. When given a choice, repeat race from later days as they give more credit. If they are too difficult (eg. breakouts with requirement to takedown cops) and the risk of losing is too great, repeat any race with required materials in them. Keep looking for missing upgrade kits.
Day 7: This day gets unlocked with day 6. Start it as soon as you can. Examine awards for races in this day. There are some upgrade kits - you don't need to look out for those anymore. When you hit the PR lock in half of this day, look ahead for awards in races and determine what number of what material you still miss. Go repeat those races to maximize the probability you wouldn't need to buy them while not having more of them than needed to upgrade color. Also use any credits to buy any materials you need. Remember - at GMT midnight, repeatable races get reset. Gradually finish races and wait before the last race. Complete upgrades for all parts and finish with flying colors.
If you stumble upon an idiotically unwinnable race, you must not waste too much time on it. If the race looks to be winnable after severals repeats, do that and even buy tickets. It is usually cheaper than skipping race with gold. Sometimes you just need a faster car, so don't hesitate and repeat some older races to upgrade sooner and return to the story after that.
This strategy can make you win the 7-day event in 6 days and one morning (6.5 days). Depending on how much time left in the event you have, buy more tickets. If you haven't made a big error, do what you can to finish the event as you don't want to waste another week of your life, even buy some materials with gold or finish without completely upgraded color.
Lastly, group a live event with a vault one when possible and play them together. That way you can rest every other week and not look for upgrade kits in your sleep.
This is a package of OpenWRT 21.02.3 stable builds for targets ath79.
Modifications against default tiny packages:
- removed PPP support
- removed OPKG
- removed SSL support
- removed signature checking, etc.
- removed swapoff and long options support from busybox
- stripped to bare bones
- added LuCI
- flashing from LuCI switched off (it causes devices to freeze)
This way the builds could fit into squashfs (factory/sysupgrade) compatible builds. Relayd or wpad-basic could not fit in anymore.
Please note there is still upgrading incompatibility against deprecated target ar71xx (OpenWRT version 18.06 or older), please see https://openwrt.org/docs/guide-user/inst...x.to.ath79 for more info.
Backup your configuration via webserver, but flash new upgrades using SSH. Webserver most likely doesn't have enough memory to handle file upload as all my tests resulted in the need to reboot the device entirely.
ssh root@192.168.1.1 #or use PuTTY
grep machine /proc/cpuinfo #check device identification
cd /tmp
wget HTTP-URL #copy URL from browser, HTTPS won't work
sysupgrade -v openwrt- #use TAB to autocomplete filenameIf you are unable to log into LuCI, you probably have old /etc/config/uhttpd file present and there are attempts to redirect you to HTTPS protocol. Remove it (use rm /etc/config/uhttpd) and re-flash using the guide above.
Builds have not been tested for all devices, but compiling resulted in no errors.
https://openwrt.ashus.net/21.02.3-target...tiny-luci/
For wget in console you can use extra configured non-secure source http://openwrt.ashus.net/21.02.3-targets...tiny-luci/
You can use this control script to enable commands like service mailcow restart just like with other services.
Add the following file named mailcow.service to directory /etc/systemd/system of you Debian installation.
[Unit]
Description=Mailcow-dockerized control
# no need to enable as a service - mailcow-dockerized gets executed on reboot automatically
Requires=docker.service
After=docker.service
[Service]
Type=oneshot
RemainAfterExit=true
Restart=no
RestartSec=2
User=root
WorkingDirectory=/opt/mailcow-dockerized/
ExecStart=/usr/local/bin/docker-compose up -d
ExecStop=/usr/local/bin/docker-compose down
[Install]
WantedBy=multi-user.target
This assumes the following scenario:
- you have an existing UniFi network of one or more APs with Fast roaming enabled
- you also want to utilize your central router with modern wi-fi support with 802.11ac (eg. TP-Link Archer C7) and save on buying an extra AP
- you want to roam between APs with minimal outages
ps -w|grep hostapd and look at the processes. There are configuration files used for each SSID. Look into them by using cat /etc/aaa1.cfg and copy the configuration to a text file in your computer. Each network configuration is different, while the same SSID on different radios have the same mobility domain and keys.
Now configure your Wi-Fi network in OpenWRT LuCI. At the time of writing this, OpenWRT version was 19.07.7. The resulting configuration should look like this in your /etc/config/wireless file.
option encryption 'psk2+ccmp'
option ieee80211r '1'
option ssid '<YOUR_SSID>'
option key '<YOUR_KEY>'
option mobility_domain '<YOUR_MOBILITY_DOMAIN>'
option pmk_r1_push '1'
option ft_over_ds '0'
option reassociation_deadline '3000'
option nasid '<YOUR_IAPP_KEY>'
list r0kh '<YOUR_R0KH_WITH_COMMAS_INSTEAD_OF_SPACES>'
list r1kh '<YOUR_R1KH_WITH_COMMAS_INSTEAD_OF_SPACES>'
option skip_inactivity_poll '1'
option wpa_disable_eapol_key_retries '1'
option ft_psk_generate_local '1'
option short_preamble '0'
option ieee80211w '1'This works OK with this UniFi network configuration:
This is verified to work. I learned it the hard way: I configured the channels to the same number on both APs, booted up a live Kali Linux, switched NIC to monitor mode, selected that channel and captured packets using Wireshark. Should you need to do this debugging as well, look for packets marked as Probe Response and carefully compare that packet from UniFI AP with the one from OpenWRT, preferably in two windows side-by-side. There will be many different capabilities, but they mostly don't matter. Unlike some of them, that do matter.
Also, initially I thought it is desirable to have the same authentication capabilities displayed in WiFi Analyzer on my phone. I was mistaken, that Management Frame Protection (ieee80211w) needs to match even though it extends the capabilities with SHA256 strings. It is probably a feature in newer hostapd version present on OpenWRT.
To test roaming working properly, you can use Ubiquiti WiFiMan from Google Play store. Naturally the roaming doesn't appear in UniFi Controller Alerts, because that is UniFi proprietary add-on.
As a side-note, I was genuinely surprised to see UniFi firmware is based on old OpenWRT version 17.x (when it was forked to LEDE).
Sadly, this short guide took a lot of time to make as it didn't want to work until the very end. The main thing that kept me going was the idea, that "It's just an old OpenWRT, it is possible, unless..."
I tried to upgrade my Windows 10 to 2004 build lately. Everytime I tried to do it, I had to revert because of PFN_LIST_CORRUPT BSODs happening more and more frequently after boot (from 20 to 5 minutes). It happened on both, my AMD Ryzen 7 and Intel i3 platform. I suspected antivirus software at first, tried to remove it, but it didn't help.
The cause was Softperfect RAM disk 3.4.8 (last version under free-for-personal-use license).
I removed it an used latest ImDisk Tools released for free. This fixed the problem.
I use Ramdisk for volatile data, browser cache and user TEMP directory, mainly because of SSD limited writes. Also, a single reboot automatically cleans this drive after some badly written apps. The only downside of this - there are some application installations, which unpack themselves once again to Temp and they can run out of space, so then it is needed to temporarily redirect Temp back to system drive.
To have persistent Ramdisk while using ImDisk Tools, you need to use an image or Task Scheduler, because built-in persistency over reboots works only partially. The Ramdisk ends up created, but unformatted. I suspect there is a problem with security as only administrators can format disks and if launched from admin command line, it works until first reboot. Either create empty Ramdisk and create a directory there using these task actions:
imdisk -a -m Z: -t vm -s 3G -p "/fs:ntfs /q /y"
mkdir Z:\tempor prepare an image of specific size and mount it once with persistency (-P):
imdisk -a -P -m Z: -o sparse -o awe -f c:\ramdisk.imgTo unmount any of them you can use:
imdisk -d -m Z:In system variables, you can then modify the user's variables TEMP and TMP to point to Z:\temp.
Chromium browsers need to be launched with parameter as in example: --disk-cache-dir=z:\Vivaldi\ every single time.
This is a package of OpenWRT 19.07.10 stable builds for targets ath79.
Modifications against default tiny packages:
- removed PPP support
- removed OPKG
- added LuCI
- added relayd
- added WatchCat
- replaced wpad-mini by wpad-basic
This way the builds could fit into squashfs (factory/sysupgrade) compatible builds. Relayd is there for cases where you use the device as LAN extender over WLAN without additional NAT. Wpad-basic enables the use of 802.11r.
Please note there is still upgrading incompatibility against deprecated target ar71xx (OpenWRT version 18.06 or older), please see https://openwrt.org/docs/guide-user/inst...x.to.ath79 for more info.
Builds have not been tested for all devices, but compiling resulted in no errors.
https://openwrt.ashus.net/19.07.10-targe...tiny-luci/
For wget in console you can use extra configured non-secure source http://openwrt.ashus.net/19.07.10-target...tiny-luci/
This is a guide to calibrate levels of your cheap 5.1 analog surround sound setup on a Windows machine. If you have an expensive setup, there is YPAO or other automatic setup system with microphone. However to emulate this feature for free with any speakers, this is one way to go. It is especially useful if you go with cables around the furniture on in walls to hide them. The signal may be lost and one rear side will be louder than the other.
You will need these media files:
They all are 1 minute generated Pink Noise 500 - 2000Hz with various track numbers. Select the one you need to match your setup.
Also you will need a smartphone and this app: Sound Meter or a dB loudness meter.
For getting sane environment please use Media Player Classic Home Cinema and after opening a video right click the dark window and select Filters - LAV Audio Decoder. Verify, that you have the checkbox Enable mixing under Mixer tab turned off.
Follow these steps:
- Make sure all speakers are set up at fixed posititons according to numerous guides on the net. Make sure all speakers are connected and after opening audio devices you have the correct speaker count set under Configuration button.
- Open up audio devices, click on connected speakers and Properties. On Levels tab click the Balance button.
- Start your DB meter on your phone and place it on a stool to a position of your ears, right in front of you. You will need a quiet environment, so close the door or tell your roomie to keep it down if you haven't already.
- Prepare the test audio file in MPC-HC and play it (you may consider enabling Loop).
- Set your speakers volume to medium (not too silent and not reaching their limits).
- Put all sliders to 0, try one by one to identify which speakers are used.
- For all active speakers (except subwoofer) repeat this: put only the slider of one speaker to 100, wait for a few seconds and mark down the loudness in dB on a piece of paper.
- Now look at your paper and find the lowest number (57dB for me). This is the loudness you need to match on all other speakers.
- Again go one by one and move the slider to a position in which the loudness is matched while all other sliders are off. Mark these results to a piece of paper.
- Set all sliders to positions according the results on the paper you just made.
- Subwoofer should be set by ear and to your liking preferably while watching a movie.
- You are done. Make sure nobody adjusts balance or surround knob on your subwoofer if it is present, you'd have to repeat this.
